How to shoot during the golden hour: A photographer’s guide to perfect light

Golden hour photography is a way to turn ordinary scenes into breathtaking images. By shooting during the period shortly after sunrise or before sunset, photographers can harness soft, warm light that is universally flattering for portraits, landscapes, and travel photography.

If you are looking to master this essential skill, we’ll cover everything from the science of the light to camera settings and planning techniques that will help you capture professional-quality shots every time.

What is golden hour in photography?

Golden hour is the fleeting window of time shortly after sunrise or before sunset when the sun sits low on the horizon. Because the sunlight must travel through a thicker layer of the atmosphere at this angle, the blue light is scattered—a phenomenon known as Rayleigh scattering—leaving behind a warm, soft glow with color temperatures typically ranging between 2000K and 3500K.

While often referred to as “golden hour,” the duration of this peak light varies based on your latitude, season, and local weather. In reality, the most impactful light often lasts between 20 to 60 minutes.

Sunrise vs. sunset: Which is better?

Why golden hour produces the best light

Professional photographers prioritize this time of day because it solves many of the challenges associated with midday light. The benefits include:

• Diffused, even illumination: The low angle and atmospheric scattering create soft light that wraps around subjects.
• Reduced harsh shadows: Instead of the high-contrast, unflattering shadows produced by a high sun, golden hour provides long, gentle shadows that add depth.
• Warm skin tones: The golden light acts as a natural beautifier for portrait subjects.
• Enhanced texture: The low light angle grazes across landscape surfaces, highlighting textures in mountains, fields, and urban architecture. This is particularly effective when you are learning how to photograph mountains and forests, where side lighting can make a dense canopy or a jagged peak come alive.

Mastering light direction in the field

Understanding where the sun is in relation to your lens is the fastest way to improve your golden hour shots. Whether you are shooting a mountain range or a model, the angle of the light dictates the mood of the final image. However, there is a major difference between landscape work and a planned photoshoot with a person.

Front lighting: The safe but flat choice

When the sun is directly behind your shoulder, it illuminates the entire scene evenly.

• The effect: It minimizes shadows and creates very predictable colors.
• The drawback: In landscape photography, this often feels “flat” because it hides the textures of the earth. In a portrait, it’s easy to pull off, but your subject will likely be squinting directly into the sun.

Back lighting: The “halo” effect

When you point your camera toward the sun, the light hits the back of your subject.

• The effect: This creates dramatic silhouettes and “rim lighting”—that glowing translucent edge on hair, leaves, or grass.
• The challenge: This is the most difficult light to meter. You may need to underexpose to protect the golden highlights in the sky, or use a reflector if you’re shooting a person to bounce some of that light back onto their face.

Side lighting: Creating 3D depth

Side lighting occurs when the sun hits your subject from a 90-degree angle.

• The effect: This is what we could probably call the “gold standard” for landscapes. It accentuates topography, highlights textures, and adds a sense of dimensionality that makes a photo feel like a 3D space.
• The landscape limitation: In a portrait session, you can use a “key light” from the left and a “fill light” from the right to balance shadows. In landscape photography, this is not naturally possible. You only have one sun. If the shadows on the right side of a mountain are too dark, you can’t just “turn on” another light; you have to wait for the sun to move or change your own physical position to catch a better angle.

Move your feet, not the sun

When you are doing a photoshoot of a person, you can simply ask them to turn 45 degrees to change how the light hits their face. In landscape photography, the “subject” is stationary. To change the light from “flat” to “dynamic side-lighting,” you must be willing to hike to a different vantage point. This is where your framing becomes critical; for more on how to arrange these elements, check out our guide on mastering landscape photography composition.

How to plan your golden hour shoot

Planning is the difference between an average snapshot and a high-quality image. Use digital tools to ensure you are in the right place at the right time.

Top sun-tracking tools for photographers

• PhotoPills: Offers a comprehensive suite of planning tools, including 2D maps and augmented reality views to visualize exactly where the sun will set.
• The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE): Excellent for mapping out sun paths and predicting shadows in specific geographical locations.
• Sun Surveyor: Provides live AR overlays that allow you to preview the sun’s position relative to your chosen landscape.

Pro-tip: Arrive at your location 30–60 minutes before the predicted golden hour. This gives you time to scout compositions and adjust your gear before the light reaches its peak. Also, the golden hour can give some really different dynamic shots. And that beautiful moment may only last a matter of minutes, so early setup is very important. I’ve gotten distracted with the dogs many times and missed my opportunity.

Camera settings for golden hour photography

Lighting changes rapidly during this time, so you must be prepared to adjust your settings on the fly. While mastering your settings is key, having the right tools for the job makes the process much smoother. For a full breakdown of the kit I use and recommendations, check out Essential camera gear for landscape photography: What’s actually worth buying?

Quick-reference settings guide

• Always shoot in RAW: This provides the flexibility needed to adjust white balance and recover highlights or shadows during post-processing. Unlike JPEGs, RAW files contain all the uncompressed data captured by your sensor.
• Monitor your histogram: Ensure you aren’t blowing out the highlights as the sun gets brighter or losing too much detail as it fades.

Frequently asked questions about golden hour

Video resources

Three of the most popular travel tripods

In this video, Ralph reviews the Heipi W28S, Peak Design Travel Tripod, and the Ulanzi JJ06 Glidego Travel Tripod. You can click on the manufactures links or find the in my Amazon StoreFront to help support my website.

Using the histogram

In this video, Simon d’Entremont teaches you how to get a perfect exposure and avoid “blow out” by using the histogram.

Master the light: Start your golden hour journey

Golden hour photography is more than just waiting for the sun to set; it is about anticipating the light, understanding your gear, and embracing the fleeting moments that turn a good photo into a masterpiece. By mastering these techniques and planning with precision, you can capture the warm, emotive images that define professional portfolios.

Photography is an ongoing process of experimentation. Now that you have the tools to plan your next shoot and the technical knowledge to balance your exposure, the best way to improve is to get out into the field and start shooting.

Join the conversation

What is your favorite location for golden hour photography, and what is the biggest challenge you face when chasing the perfect light? Share your experiences in the comments below, or pass this guide along to a fellow photographer who is looking to level up their landscape or portrait work!